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Isnin, 7 Februari 2011

Layang-layang Di Sebalik Sunset

Gambar2 yg di shoot selepas saja pulang dr shoot satu acara angkat nikah. kebetulan lalu di kawasan tu.Tgk ramai org main layang2..bez jer tgk..bawa anak2 main layang2 di kawasan lapang di Stadium Utama Kangar.




Rabu, 26 Januari 2011

Indahnya Molekul Ais Ciptaan Allah SWT

“(Begitulah) perbuatan Allah yang membuat tiap-tiap sesuatu dengan kukuh”….

Adakah di antara Anda yang mengetahui apa lukisan dekoratif yang indah ini ? Sebahagian dari kita mungkin menyangka bahawa lukisan ini adalah hasil karya pelukis yang memang berbakat. Gambar ini bukanlah sebuah lukisan, melainkan salah satu ciptaan Allah Yang Maha Kuasa.

Gambar ini adalah bahagian kecil dari molekul ais yang dibesarkan ratusan kali ganda. Para ilmuan yang menemui reka bentuk partikel ais yang sangat indah ini mengatakan, di dunia ini sejak awal penciptaan alam ini sehingga sekarang ini tidak pernah ditemui dua partikel ais yang menyamai diantara satu dengan yang lain. Setiap partikel ais berbeza reka bentuknya dari yang satu dengan yang lain, padahal semuanya terbentuk daripada sumber air yang sama. Maha Suci Allah yang telah berfirman:

(صنع الله الذي أتقن كل شيء)! النمل 88

“(Begitulah) perbuatan Allah yang membuat tiap-tiap sesuatu dengan kukuh”

Dikirim dalam Indahnya Molekul Ais Ciptaan Allah SWT


Sumber Artikel : http://peribadirasulullah.wordpress.com/islam-sains/

Architecture Photography : Masjid Zahir



Masjid Zahir atau juga dikenali sebagai Masjid Zahrah merupakan Masjid Negeri Kedah. Bangunan bersejarah ini terletak di tengah-tengah bandar raya Alor Setar. Ia juga dikenali sebagai Masjid Raja kerana ia merupakan masjid Diraja dan terletak di perkarangan Istana Pelamin.

Sejarah

Mula dibina pada 22 Rabiulawal 1330H (11 Mac 1912) atas usaha YTM Tunku Mahmud Ibni Almarhum Sultan Tajuddin Mukarram Shah, tapak masjid ini pada asalnya adalah tanah pusara wira-wira Kedah yang gugur semasa mempertahankan Kedah dari serangan Siam (1821). Reka bentuk masjid ini diilhamkan dari Masjid Azizi di Bandar Langkat, Sumatera Utara. Ia dihiasi dengan lima kubah utama sebagai lambang lima Rukun Islam.

Upacara perasmiannya dilakukan pada hari Jumaat, 6 Zulhijjah 1333H (15 Oktober 1915) oleh DYMM Almarhum Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah. Tunku Mahmud telah membaca khutbah Jumaat sementara baginda Sultan Abdul Hamid Shah mengimamkan solat Jumaat.

Binaan Bangunan

Masjid Zahir mempunyai keluasan tapak kira-kira 124,412 kaki persegi. Dewan tengahnya (Dewan Solat) berukuran 62 x 62 kaki persegi dan dikelilingi oleh beranda berukuran 8 kaki lebar dengan 4 anjung yang setiap satunya terdapat sebuah kubah. Pembinaan masjid ini mengambil masa selama 3 tahun.

Di belakang Masjid Zahir, terdapat Kompleks Bangunan Mahkamah Syariah dan Pusat Pendidikan Asas Kanak-Kanak. Bangunan ini juga terletak berhadapan dengan Balai Nobat dan Istana Pelamin. Masjid ini merupakan antara mercu tanda seni bina negeri Kedah dan antara masjid tercantik di Malaysia.




sumber artikel : ms.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masjid_Zahir

Khamis, 20 Januari 2011

Shooting With Available Light



Photograph by Jim Richardson


Contributing editor Jim Richardson is a photojournalist recognized for his explorations of small-town life. His photos appear frequently in National Geographic magazine.

Available-light photography has always held the allure of intimacy. Other genres reach for grandeur and beauty or the brutal impact of graphic truth. Available light offers something else: the exotic possibility of going beneath the surface and into the shadows to reveal what is hidden.

What follows is not a technical primer but advice from the hard-won lessons of getting pictures out of tough situations. What I offer is practical, not theoretical. I'm like the man in the joke who spends hours looking for his lost keys under the streetlight, instead of down the darkened street where the keys can be found. "Because the light is better here," he explains.

Actually, that's what we do in available-light photography: look for the interesting light, then figure out how to use it to make an interesting picture. After all, most of what we like about those after-dark pictures is the haunting, unexpected character of the light creating brooding scenes that seem to reveal the world. They're not necessarily about the seamy underbelly of life, but there is always the hint that we are eavesdropping.

(Before I begin in earnest I should make a small confession: I made an additional calculation on taking this available-light picture at a hacienda outside San Miguel de Allende in Mexico. I didn't cheat, per se, but I'm just not making full disclosure by calling it available light. And I'll explain why in just a bit.)

So let me offer a few tips about taking successful pictures when the light gets low:

  • Follow the light.
If he was a photographer, the guy looking for his keys under the streetlight had the right idea. Find the light and you'll probably find the picture. Certainly that was the case when I was wandering Arles in Provence several years ago and found that the town had covered all the streetlights with pink filters for a fashion festival. Now that was great light, even if there wasn't a lot of it. (A tripod can fix that.) The same goes for photographing an Irish pub (find one with nice light) or the streets of New York (Times Square is actually very bright).

  • Balance the light.
Contrast is your enemy. The big problem is not necessarily that it is dark (we'll talk about that in a minute) but that the scene is so bright in some places and dark in others. The range from light to dark is simply more than the camera can handle well. So start training your eye to recognize where the light from all the sources is fairly well balanced. Suddenly your pictures will start looking rich and colorful.

  • Go with a faster lens.
"Fast" means a big f-stop, like f/2 or f/1.4. Big f-stops deliver more light. After decades of available-light shooting, I generally find a good f/2.8 lens fills the bill. The truth is that really good f/1.4 lenses are rare. I can count on two fingers the lenses I have owned that I would trust at f/1.4, and this includes several "legendary" lenses that didn’t deserve the status. In addition, the shallow depth of field combined with the low light of the scene means that getting a sharp focus is exceedingly tough. Better: f/2 lenses. When you get to f/2.8, most lenses deliver decent optical quality along with sufficient depth of field to generate real working images. Note: Most affordable zoom lenses may start out at f/2.8 at the wide-angle position and end up at f4.5 (or slower) at the telephoto end of the zoom range. Frankly, f/4.5 won't cut it for available light. This is why pros pay big bucks for zoom lenses that are a constant f/2.8.

  • Consider using a prime lens.
If that phrase isn't familiar to you, it just means a non-zoom lens. A 24mm f/2.8 lens is a good example. A 50mm f/1.8 is another. They almost always have a faster f-stop and, hence, will do better in low light. There are two other reasons why prime lenses are the available-light photographers' friends. First, they are smaller and easier to handle, making working in tight situations more natural. Second, they generally have less flare. This is important in available-light situations where the photographer is dealing with several light sources in the picture, like streetlights in the background or lightbulbs in the jazz club. They work better "against" the light.

  • Maximize your ISO.
When a camera can really crank up the ISO, there is real payoff—and it is a digital-age wonder. I spent my early years in photography thinking that shooting black-and-white film at ASA 1600 was incredible. (That's not a typo: ASA was the standard that preceded ISO.) The pictures were grainy and the tonal range was horrible, but you could get images, if just barely. Today’s cameras routinely go up to ISO 3200 and deliver great image quality. I regularly pay a premium for cameras that deliver good images at ISO 6400 and higher. To me, it's worth it. (P.S. If you get a little noise in your pictures with the higher ISO, just get over it. A good picture will trump a little noise every time.)

  • Wait to shoot until people look into the light.
If you're trying to photograph people in miserably low light, simply wait until your subject looks up into the light. When they do, be ready. You may have only an instant when their faces are fully lit. Suddenly a "bad" light situation will become tolerable. This is an old trick. Think of all those great pictures from the classic age of jazz photography. The musicians are always looking up!

  • Calm down.
Camera shake is your greatest enemy. Take a moment to calm down, breathe easy, concentrate, let your heartbeat slow, and get in the zone. Practice finding a steady position, work on holding your camera solidly but not tightly. Learn to lean on things to gain support. Squeeze off the shutter, smoothly and without jerking.

  • Wait for motionless moments.
Pay attention to your subjects; they often have moments when they stop moving for a second or two. Often they will do it again. Learn their tells (like a good poker player) and you can be ready when the next moment of stillness happens.

  • Use your motor drive.
The motor drive is also known as "the poor man's tripod." True enough. If you fire off five shots with the motor drive, at least one of them should be sharper than the rest, for lots of reasons. The motion of pushing the shutter often blurs the first frame but the second and third frames are much sharper. Or it could be just random luck with one frame coming at a steadier moment. With a subject that is moving, your camera’s motor drive gives you better odds of capturing a sharp shot.

  • Learn to love blur.
When all else fails, try to embrace the blur that you have to accept anyway. Blur is just another word for motion, and motion in an image can be good. Think of the incredible energy of Carnival in Rio and you have the perfect example of a subject that just cries out for action made dramatic.

Why not just use a tripod, you may be asking? Because available light is about life. A tripod is fine if you are shooting nighttime urban landscapes, but real life just won’t hold still for you that long. Moments of truth are fleeting. Tripods make you slow.

What was the trick I alluded to earlier when I photographed the girl in the Mexican shop? I waited until she came over by the door where soft light from the fading sunset lit her beautifully. I didn't follow her around. I found the nice light and waited for the picture to happen there. Like the man under the streetlight, I looked for my keys where the light was better.


By : Photograph courtesy Jim Richardson


Article From : photography.nationalgeographic.com

Gambar manusia pertama di dunia


Gambar hitam putih yang menunjukkan seorang budak lelaki sedang mengilat kasut pelanggannya di Perancis dipercayai merupakan gambar fotografi menunjukkan aksi manusia pertama di dunia, lapor sebuah akhbar semalam.

Gambar tersebut dirakamkan oleh perintis dunia fotografi, Louis Daguerre pada tahun 1838 di Boulevard du Temple di Paris, Perancis.

Ia diketahui wujud sejak lama dahulu tetapi mencetuskan minat di Internet baru-baru ini selepas beberapa ahli akademik dari Universiti Rochester mendakwa gambar fotografi manusia pertama dirakamkan di Cincinnati, Amerika Syarikat (AS) pada 1848.

Daguerre merakamkan gambar di Paris itu dengan menggunakan teknik daguerreotype (sempena namanya) yang memerlukaan pendedahan selama beberapa minit untuk membentuk imej di atas satu kepingan perak.

Kawasan Boulevard du Temple itu sibuk dengan orang ramai.

Namun, dalam gambar itu cuma terdapat seorang lelaki dan pengilat kasut.

Keadaan itu berlaku kerana budak pengilat kasut dan lelaki berkenaan di kawasan itu yang tidak bergerak untuk jangka masa agak lama sekali gus membolehkan imej mereka tertera pada gambar itu.

Imej lelaki tersebut dikesan oleh seorang penulis blog, Gig Thurmond dalam blognya, The Hokumburg Goombah, yang mendakwa gambar itu adalah gambar fotografi pertama di dunia yang menunjukkan aksi manusia. - Agensi